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An IMC Opel Admiral Saloon model car.

These cars are from the 1930s, so it's no wonder they have a similar style to an American hot rod, even though these cars were made in Europe.

I often wondered over the years if they would make a cool custom street rod. So when I picked up this kit on a sweet deal I thought I would give it a go.

I know that most American modeler's avoid these kits, for several reasons. It's 1/24 instead of 1/25. And it's a multi-piece body, which is a challenge to build, and usually gives a car modeler state side something to whine about.

Time to put the man pants on.

I studied the instructions which aren't that bad, despite a lack of english. But this is probably the 500th car model I've built in my life time so I am sure I can figure it out.

Like some multi-piece bodies, this one was designed to fit in a flat box. Much like Revell and others did decades ago when modeling was just getting started in plastic. Remember the Revell 1957 Ranchero? Originally made to fit in a flat box? Multi-piece.

The way the kit is design there are a few seams in odd places than you would normally expect. So you have to have at least a little bit of skill dealing with those. Slinging some putty is a must.

To get started, here is the biggest seam above. This connects the rear trunk area with the roof. It's not that it's a big deal but if you ignore it, it will be very visible. I looked at pictures of real cars and could not find a seam in this location so - it gets puttied up.

In fact, if you look at Revell's image below (they reboxed the IMC kit and sold it as well ) you can see the seam. Maybe I am wrong? but I didn't see the joint on the real cars.

Here above is a front fender. The outer body sides and doors of the car model glue to the floorboard which has the inner fender pieces molded into it.

So these have to be clamped together and glued. Some sanding and a spit of putty was needed to make them smooth. Since I knew this would be a custom I sanded off the louvers for a smooth look.

This will give you a better idea how the parts fit just below.

A note on the trunk area. The lines for the actual trunk lid are VERY shallow. I didn't notice this till long into the build and scribing new lines was not possible. So just be aware of that when you slap on the putty and primer.

Next picture below.

You will notice how the roof has a seam going right across the top. Very inconveniant (again - think flat box). Luckily the firewall is attached to the front part and offers fitment and support.

NOTE: I am NOT building this model in the order of the directions. I am preparing the body so I can paint it all at one time as one piece. So before I build anything else I want to get the body glued together, prepped, and painted.

Next picture below.

The seams have been taken care of and I've painted it all in primer. Note the suicide type back doors this car has. Pretty cool. I mocked it up with some loose wheels I had lying around.

The hood is two parts, but would rest over the engine, or you can glue the parts together as one.

Next picture below.

The model kit does not include any chrome parts (clear parts - yes). I used my usual chrome paint out of a can and it works for me. (it's actually shiner than the picture shows).

I also wanted to try some new paint so I shot that on a spoon and it looked great.

Next picture below.

To use the paint I bought requires a chrome base. They make their own (which I found out later) but I already had chrome paint so I used that as a base instead.

As a test I shot the red over grey primer on a spoon and it looked terrible so chrome as a base is a must.

Next picture below.

The paint came out pretty well for the first couple coats. The paint is naturally shiny - there is no clear on it.

Next picture below.

When I went to put on one more coat the paint went wacky in a few places, so I need to redo those areas. I'm not sure what I will do as the paint will requie me to add a chrome base so I will probably have to strip the entire model.

I believe the issue might have been a tad bit of humidty in the air, and / or I should have used the paint company's recommended chrome base. So I will get a can of that and maybe do it over. I don't blame the paint.

But the important thing is - I wanted hot rod model builders to see that these kits can make a good custom hot rod. I was going to add a Ford V8 to mine (the kit includes an engine, a six cylinder I believe). And maybe add some better wheels and a lot of other things.

The inner door panels are separate as is the dash so you can really detail those out. The full chassis can also be detailed up with personal touches.

So give one a shot. See what you think.

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